Moschino FW24: A Gothic Marie Antoinette Fantasy
If anyone had doubts that Adrian Appiolaza is in love with fashion, the Moschino FW24 show erased them. A celebration of craftsmanship and irreverence opposing a discussion of excess, this collection took inspiration from Franco Moschino’s signature wit and injected it with a dose of punk-rock royalty. Imagine a gothic Marie Antoinette, leather cage skirts, and trash-bag couture, and crowned with an attitude that demands to be worn—otherwise, it will wear you.
From the opening looks—structured tailoring with exposed basting stitches and needles intact—Appiolaza set the tone for a collection obsessed with process. A nod to Moschino’s iconic 1992 Mannequin dress, these garments blurred the lines between atelier and runway, honoring the art of making clothes while delivering spectacle. The theme continued with dressmaker-dummy tunics, floral dresses suspended from the midriff, and collaged garments assembled from disparate textiles. It was a mix of old-world luxury and DIY rebellion, proving that eccentricity and authenticity can coexist.
Luxury, after all, is relative. One moment, we were watching elegantly asymmetrical pantsuits crafted from selvage logo wool; the next, a garbage bag gown emblazoned with C’est trash chic! swept down the runway. A floral duvet dress—complete with a matching cushion hat—pushed the playful absurdity even further, balancing Appiolaza’s meticulous construction with his signature sense of humor.
But beyond the theatrics, this collection felt fun—a word often absent in contemporary fashion conversations. The smiley sweater, the dripping spaghetti bag, the oversized Levi’s waistband patch stamped with In Love We Trust—these were the kinds of pieces that don’t just make a statement, they start a conversation. Fashion is an attention economy, and Appiolaza understands the balance between virality and longevity. This wasn’t just a show; it was a declaration that fashion should be worn, lived in, and, above all, enjoyed.
Walking out of the venue, I couldn’t help but reflect on how different this world was from my usual aesthetic. But I could see several of my friends having the style identity to pull these pieces off in their real life & beyond that, I can't wait to see them in editorial shoots that we will be talking about for years. I could see moments of unexpected elegance in the chaos. And perhaps that’s the true magic of Moschino: it invites you to play, to experiment, to embrace the excess—and to fall in love with fashion all over again.